Coffea Arabica

by Chris Callahan 

    As I pull my double shot of espresso this morning my thoughts try to trace back to those far off mountains, thousands of miles away, where this roasted elixir was born. In these mountains of Chiapas, Mexico ISMAM farmers produce high quality Arabica “altura” coffee beans.

    Arabica, as opposed to Robusta, is preferably a high altitude growing plant. It is indigenous to the elevated mountains of Ethiopia. From this native region in eastern Africa the coffee, by way of Arab nomads, then made its way over centuries to North Africa, the Arabian Peninsula, and on to other countries in the Middle East. Later, with trade routes widely used by oversea shipping channels, the coffee made its way to Italy hence the Latin name Coffea Arabica. From Italy coffee passed into the rest of Europe as well as east to the Asian Pacific. Within this dispersion, the coffee bushes began to take on their own unique characteristics. Different soil and minerals, changing climates and new farming methods allowed the creation of new varietals. These Arabica varietals eventually made their way to the ports of Central and South America. Some of these plants ended up in the Sierra Madre Mountains of Chiapas, Mexico where today the ISMAM cooperative grows Typica and Bourbon varietals of Coffea Arabica.

    Arabica contains less caffeine (0.8- 1.4%) than its distant cousin Robusta (1.7- 4.0%). However with the trade in caffeine comes a highly concentrated, less bitter flavor than its counterpart. The plants need to reach the age of 3 or 4 years old till they start producing coffee cherries and can grow seven to twelve meters tall, about as tall as a two story building. The Arabica plants grow best at a high altitude of about 1,000 to 2,000 meters above sea level or around 3200 to 6500 ft, with the preferable elevation around 1,300 to 1,500 meters above sea level. This is optimal with ISMAM’s farms ranging from 800 to 1,600 meters. The plants can handle low temperatures but not frost and thrive best at around 15-24 degrees Celsius with an ideal temperature hovering around 20 degrees Celsius (68 degrees Fahrenheit). As well as an ideal temperature the plants desire an average rainfall between 1,500- 2,000 millimeters of rain.

    One final distinction that defines the Arabica coffee plant in its determination to thrive can be paralleled with the values of ISMAM’s members. The Arabica plant prefers to grow in light shade and send its roots deep into the ground. These needs for the plant go in hand with the farming practices of not destroying the natural canopy of the forest, mulching in compost and a strict use of no pesticides. These practices provide for a healthier environment where nature and man can live harmoniously together instead of the dominant coffee farms and plantations that commonly strip the landscape of any such balance. After the rains the sweet jasmine scent is released by the plants many blooms, which eventually form small green cherries. These cherries take around nine months to fully develop from green, to yellow and orange, and finally settling on a bright red to purple tone. These cherries, once ripe, can be tickled off the plant, thereby only allowing the ripest cherries to be picked. Eventually the plants produce 0.5- 5 kg. of dried beans each. This process is labor-love intensive that can’t be replicated by a machine.

    To be fair Robusta has its place but is fairly different. Its origins lie in western Africa and are naturally a low elevation growing plant (0-700meters), in some instances all the way to sea level. The Robusta is easier to care for and is prone to fewer pests and problems. It grows only to 10 meters tall and flowers irregularly eventually producing a higher yearly crop than Arabica. One benefit Robusta contains, discovered by the Italians in their experimentation of optimal espresso, is higher production of crema the beans can produce. This, I must say tickles my fancy and curiosity as adding to the overall experience of espresso.

    As my thoughts immediately return to this syrupy, dark elixir and the wafting aromas tickle my nose I am once again in awe of this blessed bean which continually to this day travels on a migration of metamorphosis around the world to my cup. I will give thanks to those rich mountains hence these beans were currently born.